Cedar Shake Square Cut Shingles
3/4" x 1-1/4"
#AW1000SQ     1000 pieces    $21.50
4 square feet

#AW500SQ    500 pieces    $11.00
2 square feet
AW250SQ   250 pieces    $6.00
1 square feet

Cedar Shake Fishscale Shingles
3/4" x 1-1/4"
#AW1000FS    1000 pieces    $21.50
4 square feet

#AW500FS    500 pieces    $11.00
2 square feet
AW250FS   250 pieces    $6.00
1 square feet

Cape May Cut
AW1000CM   1000 pieces  $21.50

Cedar Shake Hex Cut Shingles
3/4" x 1-1/4"
#AW1000HS    1000 pieces    $21.50
4 square feet

#AW500HS    500 pieces    $11.00
2 square feet
AW250HS   250 pieces    $6.00
1 square feet

Special Order: $9.98
Hex and Square Asphalt Shingles
Covers 1 square foot
Colonial Brown, Canyon Red,
Black & White Blend, 
Federal Blend and Mahogany.

Shingling your house can be frustrating!!  Sometimes it is harder to decide what profile to use; color; whether to use one or two different profiles; or asphalt or wood. 

 Look at your house.  Decide what style and period you have and then if you are still un-decided, go to the Library or use your Dollhouse references to see what others have done and what you like.  Remember, it is your house and you can make it look however you please.

 I, personally, like the wood shingles.  When I use them, I decide ahead what color they will be and then I take the shingle dye, paint or stain and put it in a 1 pound coffee can and add the shingles a handful at a time and (wearing rubber gloves) stir them around with my hand until they are all coated. Next I remove them to an old window screen that I keep for drying shingles and other wood items that need to be coated both sides and dried evenly.  I save whatever colorant is left and put the lid on the can so that if I need more or need it for touch up, I have it.  This is especially important if you mix your own colorant – it is hard to duplicate it unless you know exactly what measurements you used for your mix.  Another way of coloring the wooden shingles is to “wash” them after they are on the roof. This is done with a sponge and paint.  You dilute the paint (latex) and then dip your sponge in, wring or squeeze it out so that it is pretty dry and then dab it on the shingles. This gives you a weathered or aged look that is very nice. 

 After allowing the shingles to dry thoroughly, I am ready to start.  I “grey” in the roof with a light coat of primer. This is a good way to seal the wood and if you don’t get the shingles placed closely enough and there is a gap, it won’t be as noticeable.  Then I decide what my spacing will be and mark the roof side to side with a lead pencil making lines so that I can be sure the shingles are straight.

 I like “Gloop” for my adhesive.  It is from Canada and works very well.  Soap and Water clean up if you don’t let it sit too long before you try to remove it.  I use a tongue depressor or plastic knife, spatula whatever to spread a thin coating on the roof.  I usually do about two of the rows at a time so that the “Gloop” doesn’t dry out too much before I get the shingles placed.   

You will need an Xacto or craft knife to cut shingles when they don’t fit right.  I let the shingles hang over the edge of the roof until the “Gloop” is set up and then I either cut or snap them off at the edge, carefully.  If necessary, you can use a small brush with some of the colorant to touch the edges so they are not white and odd looking.

 The peak can be finished with the shingles or a roof cap available in most dollhouse shops.  Each house is different, so I don’t have a favorite way to finish.  Use those reference books for doing the dormers, they can be trying. 

 Have fun, and remember, be patient, it is time consuming, but the finished house will be worth the effort. 

                                                                                     Alice

Doors
Classics by
Handley House